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Drum Miking Techniques


Photos here

Kit miking techniques:
There are a lot of possible kit mic set-ups and combinations of set-ups. The deciding factors are usually sound, the number of tracks available, and the number and type of mics available. When possible, you can always experiment with combinations of the following set-ups. Always go with the best sound you can find under whatever limitations that you are under. We'll start with the least number of mics, and work up from there.

3 mics-
You can use two figure-eight pattern mics in a bloomlein technique(see multiple mics technique page) in front of the whole drumset. You can vary this sound by raising or lowering the mic pair, and angling them more at the cymbals, or more at the drums. Also, the distance from the drum set, and the angle of the pickup pattern can change the sound. These two mics are meant to pick up all of the drum and cymbal sound, so experiment with placement until you get the best sound. You can only EQ a little bit, because you don't have different signals to EQ for all the drums. If you boost a frequency to get a better sound from the toms, it will also effect the snare sound. In addition to the two figure-eight mics, you can mic the bass drum seperately. This uses only three mics, but still gives you a lot of control over the bass drum sound, and you can boost the really high frequencies to get a better cymbal sound without effecting the other drums' sound too much.

4 mics-
You can start with the 3 mic aproach, but add a fourth wherever it's needed. If the snare sound is weak, mike the snare. If the hi-hat is weak, mike the hi-hat. If the floor tom is weak, mike the floor tom. If you mike the snare, you can try to angle it toward the rack toms, or the hi-hats to try to catch some bleed through from those drums. If you mike the floor tom, you can angle it to catch some of the ride cymbal, and rack toms.

5 mics-
You can start with the 3 mic aproach, and add mics where needed. You can use one figure-eight pattern condenser on the cymbal overheads, and one accent mic elsewhere. Or you could use two overhead condenser mics. Or you could mic the top and bottom of the snare drum. Or you could mic the hi-hat and snare drum....you get the picture. Lots of options, depending on what sound needs the most boost.

6 mics-
You can either use the 3 mic technique and add mics as described above, or you can skip the bloomlein altogether. You can use two mics for the overhead cymbals, one on the bass drum, one on the floor tom, one placed between the two rack toms, and one on the snare drum. Or, replace the two overhead mics with one figure-eight mic for overheads. Then you can use the other mic on either the underside of the snare drum, or the hi-hats.

8 mics-
With eight mics, you don't have to get very creative. You can mike a standard 5-piece drum kit using two overheads, and using a single mic for each drum, and one on the hi-hats (or a second one on the snare drum). Or one figure-eight mic on the overheads, two on the snare, and one on the hi-hat, in addition to one for each other drum. A lot of computer audio interfaces only allow up to eight simultaneous inputs, so you don't often see more than eight mics used.

Individual drum miking techniques:

Snare-
Mic placement should be 1-3 inches above the head, outside the outer rim but aimed at the center of the head. If there's too much of a pitched sound (like toms or timbales) and not enough snap, the mic may be too close. Experiment with the distance and position of the mic until you get closer to the desired sound. Some prefer the sound of a snare with an additional mic underneath the drum aimed at the snare wire (no closer than 2 inches). This under-snare mic should be compressed and switched out of phase. Some like this sound and some hate it, but it definately accentuates the snare sound of the snare drum. A lot of engineers will make sure to bounce the two snare sounds together once recorded, or sometimes while recording. You could also try taping wadded paper towels or adhesive foam weather stripping to the head to get rid of any ringing. Tuning tricks: for a fat snare sound try tuning the bottom head to a lower pitch (really low) than the top head. For a cutting snare sound try tuning the bottom head up in pitch and keep the top head tuned lower.

Toms-
The rack toms can be miked individually or as a pair, with a single mic placed between and above the two drums at a short distance. Usually, the toms are miked 1-2 inches in from the rim at a distance of 1-3 inches. Closer mic placement yields more of a dead sound, while more distant miking yeilds more of a live sound. For a more isolated sound between the toms, with less of an attack, you can remove the bottom head and position the mic 1-5 inches away from the top head inside the drum. The floor tom is usually miked using the same techniques. A good economy of mics is to use one placed inbetween the two rack toms, and one on the floor tom.

Bass drum-
Getting a good bass drum sound can be the most difficult and most rewarding part of recording drums. Because of the low frequencies and high SPL involved in miking the kick drum, as well as the proximity effect involved with using dynamic mics, a lot of different sounds can be achieved just by playing with the mic placement on the head. Often, drummers who have recorded a lot will have a precise spot they like to have miked. Large diaphragm dynamic mics designed for low frequencies are usually used to mike the bass drum. The drum head can be miked anywhere from the outside rim all the way to the center of the head, producing different sounds. Generally miking near the rim of the head produces more of the head sound, while miking toward the center produces more of the thud from the bass drum beater. Placing the mic closer to the head produces a warm sound, while miking farther away produces more of the high frequency click from the beater. Different bass drums will sound different, as well. You want to make certain that the tuning of the drum is producing as much of the desired sound, as well. A bass drum that sounds bad acoustically is doomed from the start. No amount of microphone placement can make a bad sounding bass drum sound great.

Hi-hat cymbals-
You can pick up the hi-hats by bleed through from the snare drum mic, if the placement of the snare mic is pointed in the direction of the hi-hats. Or you can pick up more of the hi-hats by placing one of the two overhead mics used for the crash and ride cymbals over the hi-hats. But if a stronger hi-hat sound is desired you can also mike the hi-hats seperately. You want to avoid placing the mic in between the top and bottom hi-hat cymbals, as the sharp burst of air when the cymbals meet will be captured through the mic. If more stick sound is desired, you can position the mic above meeting point, angled down towards the cymbals. For less stick sound, you can place the mic below the hi-hats, angled upward. If you want to eliminate snare drum bleed through in the hi-hat mic, EQ can be used to capture mostly cymbal frequencies, or can be applied later during mix-down.

Overhead cymbal miking-
Overhead cymbal mics are used to get more of the high frequency sound of the cymbals, as well as get an overall blended sound of the snare, toms, and hi-hat. There are three main techniques used. One is using an evenly spaced pair of microphones, above the cymbals pointing down towards the cymbals, or drums. Another is using an XY stereo pair of mics, with the one mic directly over the other, pointed in opposite directions over the cymbals, or drums. You can also use a single figure-eight pattern mic, with the dead spot of the figure eight pointed down towards the middle of the kit, and the two sides of the figure eight pointing left and right. Depending on the number of mics, inputs, or tracks available you might not use a lot of individual drum mics, or even overhead cymbal mics. You can use a bloomlein method and completely do away with overhead cymbals, if you like the sound achieved this way.


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